Yarns and fabric construction

Yarns

Fibres are spun (twisted) into yarns. More twist gives stronger, smoother yarns. Plied yarns are two or more yarns twisted together.

Woven fabrics

Made by interlacing warp threads (lengthwise, parallel to the selvedge) and weft threads (across).

• Plain weave: over one, under one – strong and simple (calico, poplin).
• Twill weave: diagonal lines – hard-wearing (denim, drill).
• Satin weave: long floats give a smooth, shiny surface but snag easily.

The selvedge is the firm edge that does not fray. The straight grain runs parallel to it; the bias runs at 45° and stretches most.

Knitted fabrics

Made from interlocking loops (weft and warp knitting): stretchy, comfortable, warm, resist creasing (T-shirts, jerseys, socks).

Non-woven fabrics

Fibres bonded by heat, adhesive or felting (felt, interfacing, disposable masks).

Traditional textiles

Hand weaving, batik and tie-dye are used to produce local fabrics and crafts with economic value.

Check yourself

1. What is the selvedge?
2. Name the weave used for denim.
3. Give two properties of knitted fabrics.