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Fibre science

Textile fibres are long-chain polymers. Properties depend on chain length, orientation and crystallinity: highly oriented, crystalline fibres are strong but less absorbent and less elastic.

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Polymer structure

Textile fibres are long-chain polymers. Properties depend on chain length, orientation and crystallinity: highly oriented, crystalline fibres are strong but less absorbent and less elastic.

Natural fibres

  • Cellulose: cotton (convoluted ribbon-like fibre; hydrophilic; strong when wet; Zimbabwe grows cotton in Gokwe, the Zambezi Valley and other drier regions), linen, sisal and other bast fibres.
  • Protein: wool (scales cause felting; crimp gives warmth and elasticity), silk (smooth triangular cross-section gives lustre), mohair.

Manufactured fibres

  • Regenerated: viscose, lyocell (from wood pulp), acetate.
  • Synthetic: polyester, nylon (polyamide), acrylic, elastane – made by melt, wet or dry spinning; thermoplastic, so they can be heat-set but melt.
  • Microfibres and technical fibres (aramids for protective clothing).

Properties and testing

Strength, elongation, elasticity, absorbency (moisture regain), thermal properties, flammability, abrasion resistance, and pilling. Identification: microscopy, burning test, solubility tests.

Blends

Combine complementary properties (polycotton, wool–nylon socks).

Exam tip: Explain properties using structure – e.g. wool's scales explain felting; polyester's lack of polar groups explains low absorbency.

Check yourself

  1. Why does wool felt when washed in hot water with agitation?
  2. Why can polyester be permanently pleated?
  3. What is moisture regain?
Show answers
  1. Its surface scales interlock and the fibres migrate and tangle, shrinking the fabric.
  2. It is thermoplastic – heat setting fixes the pleats.
  3. The percentage of moisture a dry fibre absorbs from the air under standard conditions.
Next topicYarn and fabric technology

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