Topic 4 of 6 · Form 5
Pattern drafting and garment technology
Body measurements, size charts, ease allowances, and the use of anthropometric data in standard sizing.
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Measurements and sizing
Body measurements, size charts, ease allowances, and the use of anthropometric data in standard sizing.
Pattern drafting
Basic blocks (bodice, skirt, sleeve, trouser) drafted from measurements; adaptations by slash-and-spread, dart manipulation and pivoting; adding seam and hem allowances; pattern markings (grain lines, notches, darts).
Grading
Increasing or decreasing a pattern systematically through sizes using grade rules.
Lay planning and cutting
Efficient lays reduce waste; marker efficiency = area of pattern pieces ÷ area of fabric used × 100.
Worked example: Pattern pieces cover 2.1 m² of a lay using 2.5 m² of fabric. Find the marker efficiency.
2.1 ÷ 2.5 × 100 = 84%
Garment construction
Seams (plain, French, flat-fell, overlocked), edge finishes, fastenings, interfacing, collars, sleeves, pockets and linings. Industrial machinery: lockstitch, overlocker, coverstitch, buttonhole and button machines.
Fitting
Identifying and correcting fitting problems (tight, loose, drag lines), and adjusting patterns accordingly.
Check yourself
- What is pattern grading?
- How can marker efficiency be improved?
- Why is interfacing used?
Show answers
- Scaling a pattern up or down to produce a range of sizes.
- By planning tight lays, nesting pieces, using computer marker-making and suitable fabric widths.
- To add support, shape and stability to areas such as collars, cuffs and facings.
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